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Vermont Home Radiators. Replace those nasty old baseboard and cast iron radiators with a highly efficient hot water radiator with a Vermont Home Radiator.

Vermont Home Radiators FAQs

Question:

How do I know what size hot water radiator I need for my room?

Answer:

There are several web sites for calculating BTU requirements for a room.

These programs look at geographical location, house construction, insulation, windows and doors and if the room is on a exterior wall or interior and other variables.

A quick formula to get a ball park idea is calculate the square foot of the room.

Example 12 X 14 room = 168. Now Multiply 168 by the BTU per square foot.

Example: If I have a room 12 x 14 = 168 square foot 168 square foot multiply by a New House in a cold climate that has an average BTU per square foot of 50 BTU So, multiply 168 square foot by 50 BTU and your room requires a radiator that and provide 8,400 BTU.

House Age Climate  BTU Per ft2

Old House      Warm Climate         35 BTU 

New House     Warm Climate        30 BTU

Old House       Cold Climate         60 BTU

New House     Cold  Climate         50 BTU  

I designed my radiators to heat an average room in most homes. Most bedrooms in homes are around 12 x 12 or 12 x 14.

Living rooms and family areas larger than 12 x 14, I would suggest using two radiators spread out in the room to give more even heating in the room.

For smaller rooms like bathrooms and mud rooms the 24" radiator is designed for these applications.

Refer to the Installation Manual for installation and plumbing drawings. Or feel free to call or email us for more information.

Question:

What is the cabinet finished with?

Answer:

The cabinet is finished with a mixture of boiled linseed oil, synthetic varnish and turpentine.

The boiled linseed oil seal the wood and brings out the natural color of the wood. The synthetic varnish provides a protective seal against moister and provides a hard finish.

The turpentine thins the viscosity of the boiled linseed oil and synthetic varnish, so the wood can absorb the fluids better. The turpentine evaporates off leaving only the linseed oil and varnish.

We apply three coats each coat takes one day to apply and cure before the next coat can be applied. The last coat is wet sanded with 400 grit sand paper to give a smooth beautiful finish.

Question:

When the radiators were installed some of the aluminum fins were bent/damaged will this hurt the heat output?

Answer:

It could, but a lot of them would need to be severely bent. The aluminum fins bend easily and can be straighten just as easy. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten them. Don't worry about getting them perfect the heat ex-changer is hidden behind the radiator cover.

Question:

Can your radiators be used for an open loop system?

Answer:

Yes they can be used for an open loop system.

Being made with copper these units will not corrode like a steel panel radiator.

Question:

What is the max pressure your radiator can take?]  

Answer:

We pressure test each heat ex-changer to 160 PSI. If your application is going to be higher than 160 PSI, I would need to know more about the application.

Question:

Could the wood cabinet catch on fire?

Answer:

Not from the heat of the heat ex-changer.  

The minimum temperature needed to ignite wood is 356 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, the cabinet doesn't get hot. The heat ex-changer is so efficient transferring heat the cooler air rising from the floor level through the fins and out the top keeps the cabinet from getting hot.

Question:

I see you have a 1/2" and a 3/4" male NPT connections.

Do I have enough room to attach a control valve?

Answer:

Yes, but depending on the valve. I recommend using full flow ball valves. You don't want to use a valve that has small inner orifice that will restrict flow. I have used Shark bite valves connecting to copper pipe or PEX. The supply and return line is hidden behind the radiator cover feet.

Question:

Can I use glycol or other freeze protection with your radiators?

Answer:

Yes, but use a high quality product. There are many inexpensive, low quality, glycol based solutions out there. Some of these, such as RV rated antifreeze, are not designed for a re-circulation system and could breakdown quickly cause equipment damage as the result of freezing up or gumming up the heat ex-changers in your system.

NOTE: If your using a valve make sure the valve can accommodate glycol.